I Like Pigeons Because Nobody Else Does

I found the most divine powder pink fabric at Pennsylvania Fabric Outlet and it cost a pittance. It’s really nice stuff – cottony on one side and smooth with a slight sheen on the other. This photo stinks, but it’s the best I could do at night:

Remember I said “slight sheen”. You have to look close for the sheen, but this picture makes it look satiny and in reality, it’s not.

It’s a 65/45 poly/cotton blend and feels lovely. Unless I have a very clear vision of what I want to create, I am usually paralyzed with indecision. I want to make something out of this fabric that can be worn during the day, nothing fancy. But I’m worried that I’ll look like an ever-hopeful and aging spinster who just can’t part with her bridesmaids dress from her best friend’s wedding fifteen years ago.

I have these patterns that I am considering. The first one I used for School Marm From Outer Space, but I’d make the sleeveless version:

Second choice, another Project Runway pattern:

My reservation for the one above is that I have a little bit of a compulsion to make a full skirt in order to swaddle myself in this fabric.

This is a new Burda (7517) pattern that I really like. Unique with that ribbon around the waist, but casual and simple to make:

And lastly, coupled with the powder pink, this (Butterick 5320) would be girly overload, but I think I’d totally love it. It’s my first choice, but I just don’t know if it would end up looking too dressy:

So what do you think? If you have a better suggestion than any of the above, please let me know!

No, I didn’t get another camera. I used my old Canon G5 point-and-shoot for the new photos in this post.

I’ve been busy sewing in my basement workroom. I had the movers haul all my sewing supplies into the attic thinking I’d work up there, but I didn’t have adequate table space. The formers owner of our house left two long workbenches and cabinets in the basement that were sitting un-used. It’s a little spidery and musty, but I moved my sewing room down there in order to take advantage of the otherwise vacant benches and am glad I did. There are plenty of outlets for electrical appliances and I can stand at one of the workbenches and do pattern drafting and cutting and not wreck my back. Here it is:

It’s not pretty, but I don’t care in the least what it looks like. It’s a perfect set-up.

I made another one of the Burda shirts for Gene out of some Italian cotton I got from Ann at Gorgeous Fabrics:

My sleeve plackets are still a little rough, but getting better:

I made another one of these Simplicity Project Runway creations. It started off as a dress, but looked a little bit too much like something Phyllis Diller would wear and I’m just not readya for that look yet, so I’m going to chop off the bottom and make a shirt instead:

That fabric is polyester chiffon, something I never dreamed I’d like, but I love it. You can find it in a endless variety of colors and prints. It sews well, drapes well and is almost indestructible. Maybe this recent penchant for polyester heralds the beginning my transformation into an old crone.

I am currently working on this Burda safari dress pattern

in a dark green cotton twill and it’s a bitch. I had some fitting problems that were solved after a lengthy internet consult with a kind stranger, but I solved a major issue. The detail work on this thing is tedious and it’s becoming an exercise in precision and patience, but I’ll explain all that when I write it up on Pattern Review.

Next projects are this in an olive green wool broadcloth…or possibly a woven polyester leopard print:

And the dress on the right in a black and white wool houndstooth:

I saw this dress on the Anthropologie website

And found some similar grey fabric that I’ll use to make this shirt dress

to which I’ll add the Anthropologie dress’s 3/4 length sleeves, trim at the bottom and sash.

My mom got me this exquisite vintage Vogue Nina Ricci coat pattern for my birthday:

Is that divine or what?! Garments that fabulous and well-styled never go out of fashion.  From Vintage Sewing Patterns Wiki:

Vogue Paris Original 1939; ca. 1968; Nina Ricci – Misses’ Coat and Dress. Semi-fitted A-line coat with side front closing, has bias turn-over collar; welt pockets. Seven-eighths length sleeves with button closing. Self belt. Semi-fitted sleeveless dress has A-line skirt with front and back pleats. Side zipper, and button-loop shoulder closing. Self belt. Lengthwise striped or obvious diagonal fabrics are not suitable. No allowance for matching plaid or crosswise stripes.

Featured in Vogue Pattern Book April/May 1968.

The pattern is uncut and completely original, including a tag to sew into the inside lining to mark it as a couture item. This is going to take some major strategizing and possibly some major money. This isn’t something you throw together in a couple of days. I need lining, interlining, interfacing, shoulder pads, coverable buttons, eyelets and of course, the outer fabric which will cost a hefty sum given that it requires over five yards of wool.  I’ll need three yards for the lining which will further drive up the cost. So you see how and why a good coat costs an arm and a leg when you factor in the labor.

I already bought a book on coatmaking and may try a less complicated coat first. I am afraid this may be beyond my skill level at this point, so I might amass the materials over the next six months and start on it during the winter.

I made a good score today in a leftover pattern bin at the local Crazytown fabric store. This is not something I’d have instinctively gravitated towards, but the more I looked at it, the more I liked it:

and then I really liked it when I saw that it was $2.99 marked down from over $20. This is quite a departure for me and would be daring for anyone to wear, but what fun is sewing if you don’t try something new?  I have one reservation: unless the wearer is waifishly thin, I am afraid that the skirt will make her look like a whale. All that bunched up fabric sits a little higher on the dress so I may be able to wear it successfully. I tend to wear more classic styles, but its spare construction and Japanese flavor really struck me.  It’s deceptively simply to make and uses only 2.25 yards of fabric, so if it does result in something that makes me look like homeless schizophrenic swaddled in crinkled newspaper off the streets of Tokyo, it won’t be a huge loss.

Of course all this fun will be put on hold along with my entire life beginning in just a few days. A man from the moving company was here today to assess the amount of junk in our possession and will return next Wednesday with the appropriate packing materials and his crew of thieves.

 As charming as Little Buddy is, he does have a rather repellent personality trait; he loves filth. As a result, his current bed has taken quite a beating. I wash his bedding frequently because it’s usually brown with dirt from his backyard dust baths. He was due for a new one, so I made this for him yesterday: 

So there he is, the professional napper, in his new nest. What kind of nutcase would go to the trouble of affixing seam binding to the inside of a dog bed? Me, that’s who:

That’s not just a product of my sewing OCD, but serves a functional purpose. Constant washing causes the raw seams to become frayed and it ends up a hideous mess. Binding them prevents that. I also went to the trouble of making my own piping from cording and heavy black stretch cotton. The piping they sell in the stores is junk.

I made two major acquisitions in recent weeks, both of which will augment my favorite hobbies – sewing and photography. The first one I mentioned before, the Kodak Rangefinder. Karon gave it to me a few weeks ago and it’s even better than I’d expected. It’s a fabulous piece of equipment and it’s fabulosity is increased by the inclusion of a cornucopia of lenses, filters and even a flash. That’s right, a flash. One of those big things that you see in old noire cop movies where Lenny and “the boys” are crowded ’round a chalk-lined body lying in the street. They’re all wearing suits, ties and fedoras like they’ve just rolled off the assembly line at the 1950′s Ward Cleaver Factory, smoking Lucky Strikes. Check out this swank assemblage of retro camera gear:

 All those lenses, filters and camera were made in Germany and are of exquisite quality. There were better German-made cameras at the time this was new, but this was the only quality model that was a financial possibility for many Americans with an interest in photography.

Film is going to be a whole new world; you don’t get second chances and you just don’t start pushing buttons and expect the camera to do the rest. Everything is manual and requires much planning and even some calculations. This camera is what’s called a rangefinder which means that it incorporates a focusing mechanism that allows the user to take a very sharp picture. The photographer has to determine the distance to the subject, transfer that information to one of the rings on the camera and adjust its output settings accordingly. I have no idea how to do that yet, but I’ll figure it out. Firstly, though, I want to take it to a camera shop and have it serviced and cleaned.

The second score is from right about the same year as the camera, 1952. I’ve been doing some reading about sewing machines and it turns out that one of the best machines ever built was manufacured by a company in Italy called Necchi. Apparently these things are the Bugattis of the sewing world and not even time has been able to compromise their quality. Unfortunately, in the 1960s, the company moved production from Italy to China…and you know what that means. Bye bye quality product, hello mass-produced crap.  I found one on Craigslist for $30. Fortunately, the seller was just a few blocks away from our place and I promptly drove there to buy it.  Unfortunately, it is not in operating condition. It needs a new belt and something’s wrong with the electrical connection at the back because someone half-assed it together when it needed a new cord. There’s a very good sewing shop back in Lancaster. When we return I’ll take it there to have it cleaned up and serviced.

This machine has an interesting history. I bought it from an elderly woman whose aunt used to own a wedding and gown shop here on Coronado. She used this machine for years until she retired. It also came with probably a thousand buttons, glitter sequins, pearls and some other interesting treasures which took me two days to sort and organize. I love getting mass lots of who-knows-what old stuff and rooting through it. Gene feels differently, and rudely accused me of bringing more needless junk into the house. He’ll never understand.

I made this top from chiffon purchased in Los Angeles a couple of weeks ago. Would you believe I spent a total of six bucks on this fabric??  Click on the sidebar to see the full review.

Check out this shirt I made for Gene:

My first men’s project and I can’t believe how much easier it is that making things for myself. No boobs to contend with, no curves, nothing. I can’t wait to make him another one! I got this fabric at Michael Levine’s in Los Angeles last weekend.

Fabric: Polyester Knit [See other projects in this fabric]

Pattern Description: knit dress with gathered sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: Size N5 10, 12, 14, 16, 18. According to Simplicity’s measurements, I should have made a 14, but knowing how they operate, I made a 12 and it fit perfectly.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes, except for sleeves and omission of pockets

Were the instructions easy to follow? yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This only took me two hours to make. Definitely the easiest dress I’ve made to date. How can you beat a couple hours + $16 = new dress?!

Fabric Used: Ottoman Knit – Black from Gorgeous Fabrics
Content: Poly/Lycra
Type/Weave: Knit
Width: 60″
Care: Machine wash cold lay flat to dry
Uses: Top, dress
Colors: Black
Solid/Print: Solid
Needle: Stretch 75/11
Stretch: 40% lengthwise
This fabric was a little tough to sew. I had many skipped stitches until I changed to an appropriate needle. I also had a hard time getting the needle through the fabric when hemming, but it wasn’t that bad.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I omitted the pockets, lengthened the belt and altered the sleeve length. I want to wear this now and I figured it will soon be too warm for long sleeves, so I shortened them a bit.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I doubt it. There are so many other things I want to try. but I’d definitely reommend this to knit novices.

Conclusion: I ordered this fabric not realizing it was a rib knit. I threw it in my stash and forgot about it. I haven’t done much work with knits, so it was easier for me to ignore the challenge. It’s something that I never would have chosen on my own, but I actually almost like when I receive something other than what I was expecting; it forces me try something new.
Now that I look at the photos of myself in this, I think I made it a little too short for my age.
I didn’t do any seam finishing. I can’t imagine this fabric fraying so I just trimmed them up a bit.
This fabric is great – it’s durable, wrinkle-resistant and almost stain-proof, which makes it an ideal travel dress!

I had a shitty week. A migraine started Monday and is still lingering as I write this.  Firstly, the jaguar was prepared Tuesday, but I didn’t check my email in time to find out that information and missed the whole thing. I would have been miserable anyway with this headache.  Secondly, there was a wayward whale hanging out in San Diego Bay, just two blocks from our house. I went in search of the animal but no luck. Looks like I’ll have to endure seasickness every time I want to see one.  And thirdly, we were presented with relative pronouns in French class and I can’t figure out how to use them properly. It’s really pissing me off. But I guess if that’s all I have to complain about I should consider myself lucky.

I’ve got a couple of projects lined up, one of which is a copy of this dress that Madonna is wearing in this photo. I have a thing for prim black and white dresses and this exquisite garment just rocked my world. I love the asymmetrical collar. I could use a variety of dress patterns for it and making the collar should be fairly easy. I am vexed, however, by what fabric to use. I can’t decide if I should make it from a tropical-weight wool or some kind of heavy knit.  Just so you know, I think she’s an arrogant bitch and I’m delighted that Guy Ritchie walked away with $50 million of her fortune.

From Pattern Review:

Pattern Description: Six easy skirts, long and short

Pattern Sizing: Size A, 6-16, I made a 12, view C with piping.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very easy

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was able to make this in a day and a half, less if I had worked on it straight-through. Only four pattern pieces that went together without a bit of trouble.
However, I don’t know what the deal is with sizing. According to the package, I should make a 14. Everything I make from American pattern companies seems to be huge, so I settled on a 12. I put the almost-finished skirt on and still needed to take it in another inch. I think a 10 might have been suitable.

Fabric Used: Mini gingham canvas in black and white from Gorgeous Fabrics. Also used piping that I got at the fabric store.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I attached the pockets according to pattern indicators and held the skirt up to my waist. The pockets were too far out to the sides and it put me in mind of a short-legged, wide-eyed cow looking straight at me. In addition, it made my hips appear wide, so I moved them in a bit and it improved the look significantly.
I also added a bit of color with bias bindings made from red gingham check. See here for inside photo on my blog and here for detail.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I may make another view with pockets from denim.

Conclusion: This thing is industrial strength. If it doesn’t last a lifetime, I’ll eat my shoe. The fabric was a little stiff at first, but I washed it twice and that softened it up considerably. But it’s still got a nice, crisp feel that will prevent wrinkles.
In the back the top is a little uneven and it tortures me…but I’m not about to tear this apart when it can be easily hidden by my shirt (it’s not like I run around in midriff bearing tops at almost 39 years of age) so I’ll have to live with it.
Lastly, I don’t think I’d bother making buttonholes again. You can’t even see them and it would just be easier to sew the button on right through the flap since these are faux pockets.

I made this yesterday and today. From Patternreview.com:

Pattern Description: Simplicity 6 made easy tops

Pattern Sizing: H5 6,8,10,12,14. I made a 14 but probably should have done a 10 or 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. Mine ended up being a little shorter than the photo on the pattern.

Were the instructions easy to follow?simple

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? You can throw this together in an afternoon if you stick to the instructions.

Fabric Used: Cotton Swiss Dotted Voile in blackfrom Gorgeous Fabrics. Again, as in my last review, I bought good fabric – $20 a yard – and spent a total of $30 on this project. I stuck with an easy pattern allowing me to concentrate on details and not worry about fitting and difficult techinques. I ended up with a shirt that has some tailoring details and made from excellent fabric.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I added some lace to the sleeves and bottom. I also did French seams on the sides and where the yoke attaches to the bodice. I made my own bias bindings from the self fabric and used that for the armscyes. I think this is the first time I can say that I made no mistakes!! See here for inside details.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, especially if you want to work on details and not have to fret over fitting and construction techniques. This is also great for beginners.

Conclusion: I have some cotton lawn in an olive color that I have in my stash. I’ll probably use that for this pattern. I probably could have done a smaller size, but this fits ok and the billowing bodice will feel great this summer when it’s hot.

Inside view of bias binding and french seams:

I just got around to taking a photo of myself in the latest creation, the Burda Straight Skirt. Scroll down a couple of posts to see a photo of the original and link to the pattern:

Here’s my review that I posted on Pattern Review:

I almost hyperventilated when I saw this jacket:

I must have it! My preciousss! But look at the price tag on it’s designer’s website.  $2450!  It wasn’t until I started sewing and researching garment construction that I truly understood how and why clothing can cost that much. The quality of the fabric is beyond anything you can find at a fabric store and is largely unknown to regular people like myself. Construction of something like this would take a person a lifetime to learn and there is much more to high-end clothing than meets the eye.  It what lies underneath that makes these things expensive.  Granted, some of that price is due to Oscar de la Renta’s name, but believe it or not, it’s pricetag is largely reflective of the cost of its materials and quality of construction. Maybe one of these days I’ll do a post on a tear-down of something like a Chanel jacket. It’s pretty amazing how they make those things.

But lucky for me, I can probably make a reasonable copy. I found this coat pattern on the Burda website for only 1.99 € . Although not an exact replica, it carries the same spirit and I think the longer sleeves are more practical for me anyway. The trouble will be finding suitable fabric. The pink floral Oscar de le Renta fabric pictured above is made from silk cotton faille that was designed exclusively for him. It may be months before knockoffs are available, if ever. If I’m really lucky, they’ll sell the leftovers to a fabric seller on the internet and there is a chance that it will become publicly available…but even then it will probably cost upwards of $100 a yard (that’s a total guess on my part and is probably a very low figure) and I’d need at least 2.5 or 3.0  for a coat like this. In the meantime, I’ll continue to look for a comparable fabric.

My latest project is this skirt, a high-waisted straight skirt made from a brown tropical-weight wool instead of satin. One has to be the size of a twig to wear satin effectively, as this model demonstrates. I dowloaded it from the Burda website for only 1.99€ or $2.70. It consists of only 4 pattern pieces so I should be able to make it in just a day or two.

It’s been raining in San Diego now since Thursday, and not just drizzle. It’s heavy, downpouring rain and I’ve got to walk to class in it. That’s not a complaint you hear in these parts very often! With our impeding move to Pennsylvania, I guess I’d better get used to it.

I recently discovered the world of free patterns at Burda Style Open Source Sewing. Most of the patterns are free, a few of them cost several dollars each. Burda is a German company that publishes a monthly magazine that seems to be much more in line with current styles than the other big American companies like McCall’s, Butterick and Simplicity. The open source website has some fantastic patterns available for download. They’re in PDF form which allows you to print them on a home printer, cut apart and piece together. It’s extra work, for sure, but the advantage is that you then have a pattern on durable paper instead of that chintzy tissue paper that other companies use.

Anything that sounds too good to be true usually is, and this is no exception. Burda is infamous for providing lousy directions. Some of the patterns on the free website don’t even come with instructions because they’re submitted by anyone and everyone who feels like contributing which includes design students and serious amateurs.

My first project from the Burda website was this blouse:

This is a milestone for me because it was my first successful attempt at an FBA or Full Bust Adjustment. It is a standard among patternmakers to design patterns for a B cup which is why nothing I’ve made to this point that’s required any type of fitting has even come close to looking good. It’s like stuffing ten pounds of shit in a five pound bag, if you get my drift. I ordered some nice swiss dot and cotton lawn fabrics from Gorgeousfabrics.com that I’d intended to use for this shirt, but I didn’t want to potentially ruin good fabric with my first attempt at an FBA. I bought the grey floral fabric for around $3.50 a yard thinking I’d experiment first. I never dreamed the shirt would turn out so nicely, but it’s actually wearable and I am very happy with it, although all those ruffles might be a bit in-your-face. Now that I have all the fitting issues solved, I’ll do it again with the high quality fabric. I’ll vary the ruffles so it doesn’t look like I’m wearing the same shirt all the time.

Fueled by new found confidence, I’ve decided to attempt this next:

the Almost Pollini dress at the Burda website. I love that severe, German military crossed with Bauhaus look. Gunmetal grey is one of my favorite colors. That and black, but it’s kind of tough to wear those colors in sunny Southern California so I’ve pretty much abandoned my former east coast look since we’ve lived here. Frankly, I’ve abandoned any kind of “look” at all since I stopped working a regular job. I really need to give my wardrobe some maintenance and updating.

I found some inexpensive lightweight wool at the local Crazytown that’s perfect. This is going to be a challenge. The pattern was designed by a student and includes neither directions nor seam allowances which means I’ve got to do an FBA, retrace all the pieces with seam allowances and size the pattern for me, not for the elven-sized woman in the picture. It will be a small miracle if this thing ever comes to fruition.

Calling all kids from the 70s…remember these things??

I found the socks and pattern book on the internet and am making them for the burgeoning number of kids on Gene’s side of the family for Christmas.  You can’t go wrong with these – they’re cute, the socks are made in the USA and isn’t something hand-crafted always better than some piece of crap made in China? 

So that I don’t look like some batty spinster giving out dated childhood relics, the gifted monkeys will be accompanied by these modern and adorable books. And maybe t-shirts. Did you know that there is a whole line of Sock Monkey clothing available?